The Taste of Terroir

Witness the water which falls from the skies upon our vineyards; and then passes into the roots of the vine, to be converted into wine; a constant proof that God loves us,  and that he is pleased to see us happy.
— Benjamin Franklin, 1779. 

$11.99 and $895.00

The Difference

Today we understand better the missing components in Ben Franklin’s quote. We know now that besides water passing into the roots of the vine, water incorporates the particular chemical composition of the soil where the vine grows. There are many factor that affect the flavor of the grape including its micro climate. Have you ever wondered why a 750-ml bottle of an Australian Rosemount Merlot costs $11.99 , while a bottle of Chateau Margaux 1989 from Bordeaux, France costs $895 (at 20-20 Wine Merchants; 2012 prices), even though the vintners use the same grape? What makes a Chablis from France, made from the Chardonnay grape, have a metallic, minerally, austere taste while a California Chardonnay frequently has a fruit forward nose with hints of vanilla and spice? Or even more pertinently, why do American wines prominently displayed  not the region but the grape variety on the label, while European wines rarely do, preferring to cite the region of production, e.g.,  Brunello (in Tuscany), Chablis, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and Rioja? The answer is clear,the region where it was produced!

The Terroir

Have you been lately to a well-supplied wine store? In addition to the standard wines from the US, whole sections of the wine stores display offerings from the major wine producing regions including France,  Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Argentina, Chile, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, representing thousands of producers.  It is true that wine grapes mostly grow between the 30th and the 50th degree of latitude, in both the Northern and Southern hemispheres, but grapes will sometimes grow beyond this range and minor amounts of wine are produced in some very unexpected locations. So, If it were not for the profound effects of geography in growing grapes and producing wines, we would not enjoy this incredible variety. We are literally tasting the unique physical environment the wine came from! The terroir.

French Terroir